2-Stroke Fun

This is a promo for KTM but is certainly worth the time just for the great riding. On the track footage notice that the rider's head stays level and smooth while the bike and suspension are doing all the work.

When Moto GP was all about the engine (2-stroke 500cc) and the rider, not about who programmed the best electronic.

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A Valentine Suggestion

At a loss to find that perfect Valentine gift for your One True Love? Thanks to my friend Peter you need look no further. Find it here. A candle that will bring back fond memories of that Husky 450 WR or Yami TZ.

Now if only they had one flavored like Castrol R.

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When traveling isn't an adventure

What Adventure?

A few years ago I was visiting my friends Patty and Joe in Switzerland. Joe and I were having lunch at an outdoor café when a group of tourists approached us. One of them asked, “We heard you speaking English. Do you know where we could find something good to eat around here?”

Joe pointed out a couple of restaurants close to where we were sitting and suggested the food at all of them was quite good. The person replied, “We looked at all of them but all they have is weird stuff. Isn't there any place around here that has real food?”

Joe and I just stared at them in disbelief. What was this person doing here? Joe was embarrassed for even talking to them. I was embarrassed because they seemed to be from the U.S. He quickly suggested a place that had bland “American” food and wished them a good day.

The person's parting remark was, “Well, next time we'll go to Disneyland where everybody is polite and they serve good food.” To which Joe replied, “I'm sure everyone will be happier if you do.”

“What are these people doing here?” we asked ourselves. Why would they spend so much time and money to go someplace where they didn't want to sample the local food and culture? Sure, we all want a little comfort now and then when we travel, but these people were obviously trying to avoid it completely. Maybe they just wanted to take colorful photos to impress their friends back home. Regrettably that's all they would be taking home.

Adventure travel is listening. That's why I can never understand the people who travel with their music players plugged into their heads. What's the point? If they want to hear the same old music and the same old rhythms why not just stay home? Hearing the wind through the canyons or the crackling of rocks at sunrise is the reason for traveling, not seeing bright colored cliffs while listening to punk, funk, or new age. Nature is it's own best sound track. Sure, I hear songs while I ride. If the music is appropriate the mind will fill it in.

A generation ago it was, “Tune In, Turn On, Drop Out!” Now I think it should be

Disconnect, Get A Life, Make It Real!

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My friend Dave sent me this in reply to my post about motorcycle lights.

I think your stuff like calling folks with auxiliary lights "people with more money than common sense" is off target and silly if serious but it makes for the kind of fun snarky journalism folks like and will read.  :)  Personally I wish I had them for conspicuity as I think there is evidence (and I've seen some anectdotal first hand) that the wide and low lights make drivers aware of another vehicle approaching at speed rather than just seeing a single light with no idea it's coming at 75mph... I'm too lazy to install though.  Other stuff is similar as I laugh every time I see someone who wrecks in jeans and complains they don't understand how the doctors screwed up and allowed infection to take their leg three weeks later  ;)  All good though as guys like you and me always disagree on a ton of stuff.  

I have a lot of respect for Dave's opinion. He's a better rider and all around better person than I am. He has a very valid point. More lights could indicate that it's a motorcycle coming at you instead of a nimrod with a burnt out headlight. I say could because if they blind the oncoming driver because if they are mis-aimed (and most of them are) they become counterproductive. A blinded driver is not your best friend.

If each vehicle is traveling at 55 mph then the closing speed is 110mph. This is not a lot of time to be critiquing lights on oncoming vehicles. At 75mph there is even less! Why is anyone riding at 75mph on a back road and relying on some lights mounted to their crash bars to maintain their safety? As always it's the wing nut attached to the handlebars that secures our futures.

Lastly, if Dave thinks it's such a great idea, why hasn't he mounted some on his own bike?

Thanks for the the thoughts Dave. Back at ya! =;^)

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Motorcycle First Aid List

Following up on my post about first aid kits, here is a more specific list of items to include. I would also include a clotting sponge such as this for larger wounds. Let's hope you never need any of this but lack of preparation can kill!

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Equipment - From The Bottom Up

Being prepared for the unknown starts at the bottom. Enduro bikes can avoid most obstacles and wheelie over the rest. Heavier adventure bikes have to plow through the mess and take the occasional hit. Just being bigger means they are going to hit more things.

A skid plate takes the hit so that the engine cases don't. Sadly, many factory plates are totally inadequate. The skid plate on my Transalp was made of plastic! A good skid plate is made of heavy aluminum and wraps completely around the bottom of the engine. One that merely covers the bottom is not good enough take a fall.

Most adventure bikes have fairings. Fairings are made of plastic. All that plastic is very expensive. When the bike falls over, which it always does, it will break all the plastic and then your bank account when you go to replace it.

Crash bars take the hit instead of the plastic. Generally they cost about the same as a single panel, which means that they are a very good buy. Plus, they look really cool.

Running out of gas can ruin your day. Either you're stuck or your buddy is stuck, and nobody is happy. Most factory tanks are good for day rides but going farther afield requires a bigger tank. A bonus is that most after market tanks are made of plastic, so they are significantly lighter than stock. This is weight saved high on the bike, which helps handling. The clear plastic tanks also let you know your fuel level at a glance. For some odd reason, people with large tanks constantly fill the tanks when they don't need the extra range. Putting three extra gallons in a big tank adds 18 pounds at the highest point on the bike. This will obviously affect the handling in a bad way.

Can you change your tires with your current tool kit? If not, make sure you have plenty of water and Power Bars for the hike to get help. Motion Pro makes some very nice tire irons that incorporate the axle wrench into the end. They are made from forged aluminum so they are both light weight and very tough. There is also an adapter that converts the tire iron into a 3/8” drive for sockets. More savings on weight and space.

Rocky Mountain carries a Mini T-handle wrench that works with 1/4” sockets. I went to Sears and expanded the collection of sockets and screwdriver tips to cover every screw, nut, and bolt. It's now my go-to tool when I'm away from my shop.

I'd love to have the set of titanium wrenches for their light weight but my budget isn't quite up to it at the moment.

To state my position clearly - Auxiliary lights are bling. “Hey, look at me!” Just another thing to break when you fall. Add the silly guards and the facade screams that you have more money than common sense. Usually seen with bikes that have no mud or scratches on them. I will allow an exception if you are going to the Arctic Circle in January when the sun never rises above the horizon.

On the other hand, additional lights at the rear of the bike that supplement the stock tail/brake light are good. Just skip the modulators please.

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Equipment - When Murphy Strikes

I'll assume that before any ride you've checked the fluids, tuned your bike, and used Loctite liberally. What could go wrong?

Quite a lot actually. This video shows a simple class 2&3 ride that went very bad, very quickly (just after the five minute mark). Honda had an ad campaign a few years back that said, “Stupid Hurts!” I would add that “Lack of preparation kills!”

Home made kit ...

When things do go bad, your first line of defense is a first aid kit. However, being the most obvious defense doesn't make it the most prevalent. I've asked many fellow riders if they are carrying anything and I'm generally lucky to find one with some BandAids in their bag.

That is advertises what it is ...

Googling motorcycle first aid kit returns over a million results in less than half a second. You can find everything from a $7.50 pocket kit to a $7,000 expedition pack. An alternative to a prepared kit is to make up one of your own. You don't have to carry a complete field hospital with you - a few BandAids, gauze pads, and tape, plus some antibiotic ointment and ibuprofen will cover most day trips. For longer trips look at the commercial adventure kits and raid your local drug store.

The Red Crosswebsite has a good list of suggested items. They also have a Wilderness First Aid Guide you can download.

And is in a dry bag to protect it - This gets tied down on top of all my other gear!!

Whatever you choose – put it in a waterproof container! A water crossing can make everything useless. A zip lock bag will do for simple supplies and a small dry bag will keep larger kits clean and dry. 

Then put it someplace instantly available and marked so anyone will recognize it for what it is. Put it on the top of your pack not behind zippers or locked lids. Keep a flashlight with your med kit. You don't want to be fumbling around in the dark while somebody is bleeding.

Blood,Sweat & 2nd Gear is a great book for the average motorcyclist. It is full of information on motorcycle related health. It is written by a motorcycle rider for other riders. Thankfully it is short on medical jargon and won't render you unconscious on the 3^rd page.

When the poop hits the propeller who ya gonna call? More to the point - if you're out in the middle of nowhere, how are you going to call? The SPOT Gen 3 Tracker is the device that will call for help wherever you are in the world. When the tumble you just took broke your smart phone into pieces, or you're in the many places with no mobile service, SPOT will get a message through.

The SPOT Messenger uses GPS to know where it is at all times. I won't cover all of its capabilities, but there are three important ones.

1. I'm OK – send this message when stopping for lunch or for the night.
2. I'm in trouble – send help but I'm not in any immediate danger.
3. OMG I'm screwed – send the helicopter! NOW!

The SPOT Tracker will send these messages with the GPS location to a central service who will forward the request to whatever organization can respond in the best manner. When you activate your SPOT you have the option to sign up for disaster insurance that will pay your medical and evacuation bills. That could be the difference between getting medivac to a good hospital or taking a slow bus to a witch doctor. Surprisingly cheap, the insurance was a no-brainer for me.

The SPOT Messenger uses satellite technology to send a tracking signal every 5-10 minutes. This can be tracked on the Internet by anyone you share the website with. During my Mexico trip anyone who was reading this blog could follow my progress in nearly real time. The side benefit to this is that if things go really bad and I can't press the OMG button somebody will notice that the bike hasn't moved in a long time. That will mark the spot to start looking for the body. That's why I press the I'm OK button whenever I stop for very long.

SPOT – Don't leave home without it!

Nothing will replace common sense but accidents do happen. Adventure travel is a step into the unknown. As the Boy Scouts say, “Be Prepared!”

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New Africa Twin Revealed

The new Africa Twin was reported in this article at ADVPulse.com

I'm ready to break open the piggy bank for this one!

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Equipment - Wheels & Tires

Boston to Anchorage to Panama

To tell a real adventure rider look at the panniers. If there are no scratches they either are a poser, or just got them for their birthday. Maybe poser is too strong a word. Maybe they like the look and comfort of an adventure bike and are happy to stick to paved roads on weekend rides. I'm not here to judge.

OK, maybe a little bit. When I see a GS in full battle gear with extra lights and gear but no dirt, I'm suspicious. When the skid plate is pristine without a single gouge or dent, I'm pretty sure. And when I see the Hero Cam mount, I'm convinced. DORK!! Adventure riding is inversely proportional to bling and directly proportional to dirt. A clean bike is the emblem of an unimaginative mind.

Adventure travel is all about less. Less weight, less stuff, less self.

There are many suppliers of adventure gear. Among my favorites are Twisted Throttle, Touratech, Wolfman, and Happy Trails. Whitehorse Gear is not as big but gets a thumbs up for being a local New England company that is very supportive of riders.

When you get a new bike the first thing you think about is bags. It's the most obvious symbol of being a serious rider. Serious riders need stuff and need a place to put it. Saddle bags have evolved into metal panniers, textile bags, and rubberized, waterproof vaults.

Truth be told, the luggage is one of the last things to think about when equipping an adventure bike. Maybe we should start with how the bike rolls down the road.

First, wheel bearings! Nothing says Stop! like your wheel not rotating. The dirt, mud, and water crossings take a huge toll on the bearings and seals. Sooner or later they will fail and Murphy says they will fail at the most inconvenient time and place, like 20 miles into the woods. Fresh seals and bearings are smart prep for an adventure ride of any significant length. Original bearings and seals can be had from the manufacturer but they can also be acquired from after-market suppliers like All Balls. An inexpensive alternative is to look for a bearing and seal supplier local to you, and buy direct. I've always found that the sales people at such places have been great at helping me find what I need and often suggest better alternatives. Maybe they get bored looking up parts for truck transmissions.

There are lots of videos on YouTube to show you how to replace the bearings and seals. Watch a couple of them to get a feel for the process. CAUTION: When you are installing the new bearings press on the outer edge only! I always put the new bearings into the freezer overnight before installation. Then I use a big socket that fits the outer edge to push them in.

Next on the list is tires. You are not going to get far off the road on street tires. They won't dig in on rocky slopes and they will load up and leave you stranded in mud. This is where you really need to honestly ask yourself whether you are going to be a serious or occasional adventure rider. Adventure tires will definitely get you through tough terrain but at the cost of some highway grip and comfort.

For a bike used mostly for commuting, the Heidenau K60 Scout or the Michelin Anakee 3 will provide great road grip while allowing ventures on Class 1 & 2 roads with confidence. They are good in the rain and twisties. They have long lasting wear characteristics.

To get serious off-road you need the Continental TKC-80 or Dunlop D606. As you might imagine, the on-road performance is inversely proportional to the off-road grip. The TKC-80s are 50/50 on-road/off-road tires while the 606s are 25/75 tires. The TKC-80s are what I used on my latest Mexico trip that had a lot of paved road to cover. They got me where I wanted to go but I admit to skipping a few places that might have been a problem. They lasted 4000 miles but were totally shot in the end. I would have replaced them sooner if I had the opportunity.

The Dunlop 606s are my tire of choice when the going gets tough. Hands down they are the best DOT legal adventure tire in my opinion. They are noisy on paved road, you want to be careful in the rain, and they wear out in 2500-3000 miles. However, they take a beating from rocky trails and never let you down. They get into the mud and keep going like a Caterpillar tractor. This is basically a street legal enduro tire. When I wanted to descend the Shafer Trail and traverse the White Rim Trail in Moab it was the 606s that I trusted.

Not the place you want to be worrying about your tires!!

Next – the next two pieces of equipment to get before you get going.

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What is an Adventure Bike? - Part 2

Years ago I taught a Photography 101 course. Every new class was filled with eager students, each one with a Canon or Nikon and a special lens that was sure to take spectacular photos. They were shocked when I made them do the first few assignments with cameras I had picked up from yard sales for about fifty cents each.

The point I was trying to teach them was that it was the eye and the heart that takes the picture. The camera is merely an electro-mechanical device to record the moment.

It is exactly the same with adventure biking. It is all about your eyes, and ears, and spirit.

The motorcycle is merely a contraption to carry your stuff for you.

The gorilla in the room is, of course, the BMW R 1200 GSA. A 573 pound gorilla to be specific. The thought of picking up this huge bike with another 100+ pounds of gear attached is right up there with visions of a root canal! Maybe if you're a Teutonic warrior or Vin Diesel, but I would need a crane and a winch. Not that this is likely to happen to most of them. These are for people who need to show how cool they can afford to be. At $30,000 fully loaded this bike is not something you want to get scratched up. It's for going to get a latté and letting people admire it.

The Yamaha Super Ténéré ES is the same weight and size as the BMW but around $10,000 cheaper. Long ago this bike started out as the XT600Z Ténéré. Maybe it wasn't that Super, but it was 300 pounds lighter and Chris Scott described it as “the best of the lot” for desert travel in his 1995 book “Desert Biking”.

If you must have a BIG bike the KTM 1290 Super Adventure is the pick of the litter. A dry weight of 503 pounds and deep suspension travel make this a serious contender if you want a bike to go around the world. However, add fifty pounds of fuel in the tank and 100 pounds of luggage and gear and you're right back into jumbo jet territory.

The Triumph Tiger 800 XCx is a more reasonable adventure bike for the rest of us. The $12,000 sticker price is more reasonable, and with the five gallon tank topped off it weighs in at a more reasonable 473 pounds. This is a bike that will be a comfortable commuter and with a change of tires take you anywhere you want to go in the world.

The BMW F 800 GSA is an alternative that costs $2,000 more and weighs about the same. For the extra money you get marginally better dirt performance and give up some on-road comfort and ability.

The Kawasaki KLR 650 is the Rodney Dangerfield of adventure bikes. It's been around forever. It has been ridden everywhere. It is fun, reliable, light, and cheap. And it gets no respect!Right from the factory it has a 6.1 gallon tank. It weighs only 432 pounds. It has over 7” of suspension travel. There is a huge aftermarket industry that supplies inexpensive parts and accessories for it. Kawasaki has been making it for so long there is nothing left to go wrong. And it only costs $6,600! Compared to the BMW GSA you can buy a new one every time it needs new tires and still save money.

If the KLR is the Rodney Dangerfield of adventure bikes, the Honda XR 650 L is the ugly duckling. It is the punchline of every dirt bike joke. Until you ride it. Yes, it is too heavy for woods single track, but it will go through anything if you work at it. Yes, it has an old school air cooled engine and steel tube frame, but there is no radiator to smash or hoses to leak. The steel frame can be welded back together by anyone in any third world country. Try that with an aluminum forged frame.

It's $100 more than the KLR650 and really needs a bigger after market tank to give it any range, but the weight is only 346 pounds fully fueled. If you trade the stock exhaust for an aftermarket pipe you can save another 25 pounds. Suspension travel is 11” front and rear. This is only a fair commuter bike but when the going gets rough the XR650L turns into a beautiful bird. Making it even better, good used examples can be found all day for $3,000 and under.

Transalp in Baja

I'm including the Honda Transalp (XL600V) because it was and is my favorite bike of all time. If I was to choose only one bike of the several that I own it would be this one. The V-twin 600cc engine is powerful enough for any task. It is smooth on the highway and torquey in the rough. The XR suspension soaks up the ruts and bumps and keeps a steady line.

Once accustomed to the 400 pound weight, the rider is rewarded with a virtuous, comfortable bike that goes anywhere with Honda reliability. It's like a Swiss Army knife; it doesn't do anything perfectly but it does everything pretty darn well. Too bad it was far ahead of it's time and Honda didn't promote it properly. Not quite a cult bike, examples appear from time to time for ~$3,000.

Those are some examples of adventure bikes now on the market. I don't have the room or time to list everything. The Suzuki V-Strom 650 Adventure does come to mind, but it's pricey (~$10k), heavy (~500 lbs) and I wouldn't take it anywhere until I got a decent skid plate to protect that exhaust pipe. The KTM 690 Enduro R is another great bike that has always suffered from the high price and lack of promotion in the KTM lineup. The Suzuki DRZ400 deserves an honorable mention as well.

Remember, no matter which you choose, the bike is nothing but a pack mule. If you want an ego extension go buy whatever you can afford. If you want to go for a ride know what you really want to do and be realistic about your choice.

Got a favorite bike you would like to recommend? Or a comment on one of my choices, good or bad? Let me know in the comment section.

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What is an Adventure Bike?

When I was twenty-one I took my first cross country adventure trip. I had a 1965 305cc Honda Super Hawk, an army field jacket, a Boy Scout sleeping bag, and a plastic sheet to sleep under if it rained. I had a great time riding the TransCanadian Highway, but I have to admit that you would have to hold a gun to my head before I'd try that combination again.

At the opposite end of the spectrum is a BMW GSA. Selling for over $22,000 with options to make it a two wheeled Winnebago that will go around the world doing wheelies - if the BMW brochures are to be believed. Of course most owners will not take them farther than the nearest Starbucks and think busting the rear wheel loose on a gravel driveway is just so darn cool.

Somewhere between the wing nut and the leviathan is a sweet spot for real riding. However, let's stop and remember that adventure riding is all about exploration. The journey can be as important as the destination. Whatever gets you off your butt and down the road is the best bike in the world.

A couple of years ago a friend of mine graduated from college and was moving to San Francisco. He came to me and asked about the best way to get his bike to the left coast. I gave him a dope slap and told him to put his butt on the seat and head west. His bike was a Honda CB550 that was manufactured the year before he was born. To make a long story short, he rode that bike from Boston to Anchorage and then down to San Francisco. I'd say that 1976 CB550 qualifies as an adventure bike.

Lois Pryce rode a Yamaha XT225 from Anchorage to Ushuaia at the tip of Argentina. Solo! Not the largest person on the planet, a bigger bike would have been too much for her. Since any path you choose implies an occasional tip over, you need to be sure you can pick the bike up. In the mud. On a hill. In the rain!

So an adventure bike is any bike that will take you where you want to go and carry the stuff you want to take with you. And one you can pick up when it falls over. That's it!

All that other stuff like metal panniers and multiple lights with lens guards is just bling so you can look butch and keep the Chinese economy going.

Here's a list of what you really need:

1. A reliable engine
2. Reliable electrics
3. Good wheel bearings and seals
4. A big gas tank
5. Something to hold your stuff
6. Appropriate tires

That's it. Notice that engine size is not on the list. Electronic traction control is not mentioned. Neither is integrated engine control mapping or ABS.

Ted Simon went around the world on a 500cc Triumph T100.

One of the greatest motorcycle videos of all time - Buy It!!
I know some riders in India who think that a Royal Enfield 350 is a great bike.

In the next post I'll show you some examples of different bikes and discuss the pros and cons of each. Stay tuned.

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To Darn Cool Not To Pass Along

I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas. This video of a real person's house and display blew me away!

Click here if you can't see it properly.

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References - DBAJ & Road Classes

I'll mention these as references that I'll refer to later. 

DBAJ

It's my mantra when traveling solo.

Don't Be A Jerk

My check on myself to take the long view and not take stupid chances. 

Road/Trail Classes

These are what I came up with over the years of trail riding and organizing the New England Transalp Rally. They are obviously subjective and subject to interpretation. Your mileage may vary.

Class 0 - Paved road

Class 1 – Graded dirt or gravel - eg county road – Yo momma in a Corolla.

Class 1.5 Rutted dirt road – Yo momma with bad language.

Class 2 – Dirt road that would damage a car but not a pickup truck

Class 3 – Two track – rocky or muddy single lane suitable high clearance pickup

Class 4 – 4 wheel drive due to loose rocks and/or slope

Class 5 – 4 wheel drive due to rock faces, sand, or jungle

Class 6 – Single track – easy

Class 7 – Single track – moderate

Class 8 – Single track – hard

Class 9 – Single track – extreme – expect damage and pain

W1 - water crossing easy - puddles and mud

W2 - water crossing moderate - streams and small rivers - axle deep

W3 - water crossing extreme - fast rivers, swamps, bogs

Most adventure travel is on Class 1 & 2 roads with the expectation that Class 3 may always be lurking around the next bend. W1 is expected and W2 is a possibility. Beyond that I invoke the DBAJ mantra. When traveling solo I'll do it if I have to but will look for a viable alternate route. Still, sometimes you just have to suck it up and go for it.

Photo from the TransAmerica Trail

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Adventure vs Dual Sport Riding

The last Christmas present has been wrapped and the last package posted. Now it's time to relax and reflect on the recent events. As I've mentioned before, I'll be presenting a seminar on adventure travel at the NETRA Expo. In the next few posts I'll be exploring some of the topics I'll be covering. This will have the dual purpose of clarifying my thoughts and sharing them with those of you who can't attend.

Adventure riding and dual sport riding are terms that are often interchanged. It doesn't help that the marketing wonks, having found a new market, enthusiastically embrace both terms in an effort to confuse the public into thinking that their products are suitable for every form of travel. They want to narrowly define the market for their new models as anyone who has seen a dirt road and has a wallet thick enough to support their delusions.

Here in New England dual sport riding is essentially an enduro without the timing and competition. Single track through the woods with 250-525cc bikes that have somehow become street legal, either from the factory or with a conversion kit. A KTM 350 EXC or a Kawi KDX 220 with a Baja kit are examples of this. There is usually a defined course with a route sheet to guide the way. There may be hero sections for the more skilled or foolish. It is generally a loop that starts and ends at a parking lot where the transport vehicles can stay while the riding is done.

If that is dual sport riding, I would define adventure travel as being much the opposite. The bike can be the same but the course is vastly different. The start and end points are generally far apart and the course is only generally described. It may be a combination of paved and dirt but is rarely single track. It is a trip rather than an event.

However, saying that does not mean that adventure travel is limited to cross-country or trans-global trips. It might mean no more than going out for a weekend and exploring local roads. This is the essence of adventure travel – Exploring!

Dual sport riding follows route sheets calibrated in 0.10 mile increments.

63.5 L DR

64.8 L DR

65.3 S DR

67.6 BL @ Y

The challenge is to follow the course without getting lost and to overcome all obstacles in the path. Roots, rocks, and mud are only some of the challenges along the way.

Adventure travel is more about the destination and finding an interesting way to get there. Getting lost is often a bonus because something new is discovered. You are riding along and see a road sign, Higgengottem Hollow. Ever wondered what a “Hollow” was? Turn off the path, ride down a dirt road, and an hour later you have a good idea. When you get to the end take any road from there and keep exploring. Eventually you will find your way back to main road and if you don't, stop and ask somebody. They will undoubtedly be happy to point the way and will probably tell you anything you want to know about the history and activities of the area.

Adventure traveling – Often misplaced, never lost.

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Mexico - Day 10 - The last day in Mexico

I woke up knowing this would be my last day in Mexico. It had been a great experience but I was missing being home.

As I left town I passed this statue at the top of a hill. It celebrates Don Carranza who founded the town. I had to ride the bike up two wheel chair ramps to get it into position for this shot but Don Carranza didn't seem to mind. You can see the white seat pad I had received from Lupe. It made all the difference in the world.

Back on the highway I ran into another Army roadblock. This one had one of those Cold War/East German wooden barriers across the road to prevent anyone from driving through. The soldier came over and started questioning me but I wasn't sure what he was saying. I said I was going to Tejas (Texas) and was coming from the Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon). He didn't seem to understand that.

The more he didn't understand the louder and faster he talked which made me even more confused about what he wanted. No comprendo, was my only response. A couple of other soldiers were gathering around and I was thinking that this might get sticky when the commanding officer came over. He gave the first soldier a dope slap, literally hit him upside the head, and said something I couldn't understand but I'm sure wasn't complementary. Then he nodded to the soldier to lift the barrier and told me something that I took to mean Get out of here. I was down the road before he had a chance to change his mind. In retrospect it was pretty funny.

After that it was just like the day before until I got to Piedras Negras. There was a 28 peso toll to cross the Rio Bravo and then an hour wait in traffic to get to U.S. Customs. Three minutes was all it took to check that I was a legal citizen and then I was clear to enter Eagle Pass, Texas.

My plan had been to ride north and spend the night in La Pryor TX. What looked like a small town on the map turned out to be one Dollar General store and one gas station. When I inquired about any places to stay the night the girl looked at me like I had two heads.

Needing a place to stay before dark (still no headlight) I headed north and tried to cover as much ground as fast as possible. This was all ranch country so the road was straight and had little traffic. It also had little in the way of civilization.

US 57 joined I-35 as I approached San Antonio. It was getting dark when I came upon the sign above. Kinney Road is the street I live on in CT and in many ways I was ready to just be home. However, a couple of exits past this I found a motel for the night and was rescued by a hot shower.

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This is the last of the retrospective posts. You can rejoin the original thread I posted here.
The next few posts will be summaries of what I learned and the thoughts I've had looking back on this trip.

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